New England Clam Chowder
Yield: 1 gallon
My first experience with making clam chowder was in the mid-80s at the Coonemessett Inn. The Cooney serves true Yankee cuisine with few twists. This was my third or fourth cooking job and I learned a ton in this production kitchen. Chef Carl Johnson’s chowder was quaqhogs, onions, potaotes and salt pork and that’s about all. While Carl’s was thickened in the traditional manner, by adding flour to the onions and rendered salt pork, another chef I met at the time, Steven Telford updates the classic by pureéing some of the potatoes to thicken. Both are briny, rich and no nonsense chowders. Years later, when I lived in Provincetown, I’d go clamming with my pal Zöe Lewis. Zöe sometimes brings me a few pounds when she visits … except that one time when she left them on the bus!